The
forecast on the Sunday evening was dire, offering a strong cold North-easterly
building up during the day with rain arriving from mid-day. I considered
hitching a lift back by road, but that would have left a sense of
incompleteness and lack of achievement. Also it's a good old rule that if
conditions look possible and you have an escape route you should always go.
My
mates for the trip were going back on the sturdy Blue Sky, so the Kelpie's now
solitary crew departed just before nine, with a couple of hours of favourable
tide left.
Once I
had rowed out far enough to get an offing the main was set.
At that stage there
wasn't a lot of wind, so the jib went up as well, but a few minutes later this
effort was rewarded when a squall came over and we shipped a bathful of water.
Thereafter for most of the day the jib stayed firmly lashed to the bowsprit.
Despite
the strongish wind progress was slow, with Kelpie's flat bottom slamming a lot
in the nasty short chop, then the waves gradually got bigger and she really got
into her groove, charging along with her rail a couple of inches clear, luffing
in the puffs and eating up the distance to windward. Operating the new pump was
a bit like wrestling with an eel, however.
After a
couple of hours Kelpie and I were well into Loch Melfort when a short line
forming part of the snotter burst during a squall and the sprit fell down,
leaving the rig accidentally scandalised and flapping like mad, quite useless
for further windward progress. As it continued to blow very hard I couldn't see
exactly what had happened, so stowed the main and got the jib up to see if any
progress could be made against the wind. The answer was a resounding no.
I could
have reached across to the South shore of the loch, except for the fact that
the route to the only stretch with any shelter was totally barred by the lines
of black buoys of the mussel farm, fastened with steel wires along the surface
stretching for several hundred metres. This is exactly the sort of problem some
of us have tried time and again to bring to the attention of the authorities
who license these things, to absolutely no avail. The general public have the inalienable right to use the surface of the sea for the purposes inter alia of navigation and recreation, but the Crown Estate, who hold the seabed in trust for us, ignore these rights and make money by granting leases of the seabed. The farm in question, owned
by some Swiss investors, was badly damaged in the storm a year ago, turning the
lines of ropes into a tangled confused mess and a real hazard to everyone. It's
been rumoured that they even got a cash grant from our government to start
their operations here, which sometimes makes me wonder what kind of reply we
would get if a group of Scots asked one of the Swiss cantons for finance to
spoil one of their lovely mountainsides with a similar intensive farm. Surely
the Swiss, with no seas of their own, should stick to tax dodging, cuckoo
clocks and occasional sorties into the America's Cup?
Downwind
from the mussel farm was a nasty lee shore with waves breaking on sharp boulders. The only course was to run under
the jib to the shelter of the point at Arduaine where I got the oars out and had a
brisk row round the corner, passing close between the reef and the shore (there's
a deep passage there, I discovered) before beaching on a nice sheltered sandy
bay. I discovered that one tiny piece of line had let the whole show down, a
real reminder of the old adage for the want of a nail .... After some lunch and
a walk on shore I quickly got the rig repaired and the Kelpie relaunched.
There
now followed a hard beat of about three hours into a really cold North-easterly
with occasional squalls of sleet and a real sense of achievement on getting
safely moored in time for tea. Once again Walt Simmons' wherry showed her
seaworthiness.
I've come back and read this story three times. Good tale.
ReplyDeleteAnd a very handy boat -
ReplyDelete